Creamy | Milk Paint

How Should I Mix Milk Paint? 

Mixing smaller batches of paint as needed is definitely a great idea to avoid waste and ensure the quality of the paint. Once mixed, it will only last a few days or so if covered and placed in the fridge (unused paint powder lasts indefinitely in an airtight container). So it is better to mix up smaller batches and mix more as needed. 

As equal quantities of powder and water are required for normal furniture painting, the easiest way is to measure out the powder and water by volume. So whatever you are using to measure the powder into the mixing bowl or container, use the same to measure in the water.

However, if you have a large project and know that you need to mix a full bag, here here are the suggested water quantities to begin with:

• To make a Pint of paint, start with 9 floz of water and a 1-Pint package of powder
• To make a Quart of paint, start with 18 floz of water and a 1-Quart package of powder

Note: these amounts are approximate, and may vary with paint color, but they are a good place to start.

Hot Water is best for dissolving the powder. Using hot tap water, add equal parts water (so the same amount you did for the powder) to the paint.   The hot tap water helps the clumps dissolve the best!

 Stir, stir, and stir!! You can mix it up with a stir stick, spoon, whisk, coffee frother, etc.  

You should stir for about a minute to a minute and half to get out most of the clumps.  The whites can tend to be a bit more clumpy, and are a little harder to mix smoothly, but don’t be worried about small clumps in your paint, they normally flatten out when you brush on the paint and sand your piece smooth in the final steps.

Some people like to add just a small amount of water to begin with and work the paint into a paste and then add more water. Give it a try and see what works best for you!!

The consistency you want your milk paint to be is that of a half melted milk shake.  You never want your paint to be so thin that you have runs and drips everywhere, and you definitely don’t want it so thick that it’s hard to paint smoothly with.  If your paint brush is dragging, then it’s too thick.  You can control how you want your paint to be, so if you like thinner paint, by all means make it thinner!  We often go a little thicker on the 1st coat and then thinner on the 2nd.

But keep in mind, that as your paint sits it does thicken up.  If this is the case you may have to add a very small amount of water during painting to get the paint back to the right consistency.   The paint also does tend to start settling to the bottom of the cup once mixed, so remember, that you must stir the paint throughout using it to keep it smooth.

Milk paint is the most durable paint you can find ~ it adheres to porous surfaces like no other, and the color will never fade.

When and Why Use Extra Bond?!

Milk paint is the most durable paint you can find ~ it adheres to porous surfaces like no other, and the color will never fade.

Extra Bond is a water based polymer emulsion.  When added to milk paint, it gives greater adhesion to non-porous surfaces and previously finished pieces.  Its environmentally safe, non toxic and VOC free.  Clean up is easy since it’s a water based product – just simple soap and water will do.

Basically –Bonding Agent is recommended to be used if you are going to be painting a piece that has been previously painted, it has an old finish (shellac), or painting a non porous surface such as glass, metal, laminate.

If you like of milk paint, but don’t want a chippy distressed finish, then you would want to use the Extra Bond.

Using the Extra Bond is really simple because there are no extra steps involved!

To use, you mix your milk paint according to the directions (add water and powder together) and then add your Extra Bond and mix.  It’s important to mix up your milk paint 1st and then add the bond.  If you add the bond directly to your powder and then add water, it will be a clumpy mess.

When you know that you will be adding the bond, make your milk paint mixture slightly thicker than you would normally.  The bond won’t thin out your paint too much, but it may just a little.  If it still too thick after adding the bond, you are fine to add more water.  The consistency should still be the same as if just using milk paint alone.

The directions call for adding two parts paint to one part of bond.  So if you have a cup of mixed paint, then add a half cup of bond.   A lot of times when you know that you need bond, but still want chipping, just add half or even a quarter of what the directions call for and that normally works.  

In most cases the Extra Bond really makes the paint stick and you will get very little to no natural chipping whatsoever.  If you have a surface that is a little iffy and think that you will need more bond, you can add up to a 1 to 1 ratio, so if you have one cup of paint, you can add 1 cup of bond.

Extra Bond only needs to be used on the first coat of paint.  When using the bond in your 1st coat, it is recommended that you wait 2 hours before applying the 2nd coat of milk paint.

Note: It is important to not let the bond freeze as it will no longer be usable.  It’s also recommended to use it above 60 degrees F so that the bond can cure.

Milk paint mixed with bond added will only last you a few hours especially if left uncovered.  It will start to gel and will no longer be usable – that’s why it’s important to only mix up what you will need for the 1st coat.

Pro Tip: Make sure your first coat is completely dry (as little as two hours, but I like to wait a bit more for good measure) before adding your second coat. This gives the bond time to adhere and do it's job. 

Milk paint is funny and unpredictable when not using the bond. So getting used to it takes practice, learning and trial and error.

It’s important to have the Extra Bond on hand, especially when first starting out with milk paint.  Milk paint is known for its unpredictability, especially when skipping the bond, so by adding the bond you will have better control over the final results of your piece.

Painting

Apply as you would any other paint. You don't need a special brush. However, I prefer synthetic as it will hold more and absorb less of the paint.

Your first coat won't look great; it will be streaky, but don't worry, the Magic happens after that 2nd coat! Generally, we recommend 2-3 coats on raw wood, but no more than two coats on a previously finished piece as a third coat can cause more chipping.

Finishing Off Your Paint

Sweet Pickins Milk Paint can be top coated with any available product on the market.  After your final sand, to protect milk paint from water spots and make it easier to clean, it must be top coated.

Milk paint is extremely flat and very porous, it will absorb dirt and oils and will be hard to clean if not top coated with something (it will also water spot very easily.)

You can use anything from brush on, to wipe on and of course spray on topcoats. Here are some examples:

• Oil based polyurethanes (be careful and do a test spot as it may greatly change the color), poly or non-yellowing polyacrylic, or shellac.
• Our “Finishing Coat” available in Gloss, Matte, and Satin is water-based.
• Hemp oil, tung oil and linseed oil or oil wax. You can use anything from brush on, to wipe on, and of course spray on topcoats.
• Wax is extremely popular right now.  It’s super easy to use and it creates the most amazing luster over the milk paint.  The wax will brighten and intensify the color – it brings out all the amazing qualities that are milk paint, such as the crackling and the natural color variation within the paint.  The wax really takes milk paint to another level by adding so much depth to the piece.

• For kitchen cabinetry and in high moisture areas, we recommend our Tung Oil, a super tough finish on new wood which gives maximum protection against water and grease marks. 

Oil Wax

Our Oil Wax contains a combination of natural resins and waxes that together create a durable, water repellent, water-mark resistant finish and sealer.  Oil Wax will dry to a smooth satin finish or can be buffed to build up a higher shine.

Oil Wax is non – toxic, all natural and has low VOC’s!!  Oil Wax dries to a hard finish that offers tons of protection!

Reminder: Oil Wax & Tung Oils are an oil based product which can spontaneously combust if under the right conditions. Remember to dispose of all rags that you have used any oil based (stain included) product properly.

Milk Paint is the perfect paint to achieve a unique, aged finish. With natural distressing properties, it can be used on porous and non-porous surfaces for a wide range of effects. Its formula is versatile and customizable, making it the go-to choice for professionals and DIYers looking for that special look.

 FAQ

Q.  Can Milk Paint be layered?

A. Yes it can. You can sand back colors to distress, or use a clear wax. After applying your first coat, highlight the areas you would like to show with clear wax, and then apply your second color, and wipe back the color from the wax. Voila

Q.  How do I make raw wood chip?

A, For raw wood, I would recommend spraying a dusting or clear sealer in several spaces, and while it is still tacky, apply the Milk Paint. This should create your cracking effect!

Q. Can I use Glaze?

A.  You can use the same techniques for distressing and glazing milk paint as you would any other paint.  Don’t be afraid to experiment!

Q. Can I prime to prevent bleed thru when necessary?

A.  You sure can. Do what you need to do! Zinsser & Bin are great options. . Clear of course is the best option. 

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